Interesting Soap Making Processes

Soap making is a challenging task because you decide on the qualities of the soap you will produce. You can add various additives in order to achieve results depending on your desire.

Soap is a common necessity in every household. It is essential for personal hygiene and cleaning our clothes as well as other places in our house. While there are a lot of varieties of soap available in the market, you can make your own soap or turn it into a profitable business. It is quite easy to do soap making.

Basically, soap is made up of vegetable or animal fats. The sodium tallowate comes from beef fat and is commonly used as ingredient in making soap. Softer soaps are typically made of palm oil which is a vegetable oil. Castile soap is made up of pure olive oil. Different oils and butters featuring different qualities are used for soap making. Such ingredients may come from olive oil, coconut, cocoa, palm, shea butter, and hemp oil.

Hand-made soaps are better compared to industrial soap. A hand-made soap is the result of excessive fat or super fatting which leaves a moisturizing effect and ideal for the skin. This can be achieved by putting less lye to the mixture. On the contrary, an industrial soap usually uses more detergent which is not very friendly to our skin. Sometimes soap makers make use of a ready made soap which is melted and poured in different kinds of molds. This method is called melt and pour.

In soap making, there are several processes which you can use depending on your preference. The cold and hot are two of the frequently used processes. Ideally, both cold and hot processes need constant heat for proper saponification. In cold process, above room temperature is required to achieve liquefaction of the fat. It also requires that the lye and fat is maintained warm after mixture to make sure that it is saponified completely. This method is the most popular method used in soap making, too. This process allows the reaction of fats such as olive oil with lye.

Hot processed soap can be immediately used compared to cold processed soap. A great advantage of hot process is that there is no need to know the exact concentration of the lye to achieve successful results. While in cold process, it is essential to know the exact quantity of lye to achieve a mild and skin friendly quality of the soap.

In hot process method, the lye and fat are boiled at temperatures between 80 to 100°C until saponification is achieved. Afterwards, salt must be added in order to precipitate the soap from the solution. Any excessive liquid is drained. While still hot, it is poured into molds and allowed to cool. Saponification charts are used for both methods.

In cold process method, the first thing to do is to use the saponification chart to identify the measurement of saponification value of fats to be used. It can be utilized to compute the right amount of lye to be mixed. You must be careful of the process because un-reacted lye can lead to high pH that may cause skin irritation and burn. However, if lye is insufficient it will cause the soap to be greasy and unpleasant. In order to achieve the best results, it is recommended to formulate the recipes with 4 to 10% discount of lye. This will ensure that the lye will totally react and excess fat is available that’s beneficial for skin conditioning.

In the process, lye is thoroughly dissolved in water and oils are heated at room temperature. Soon as the substances are cool enough, they are mixed together and stirred until no traces remain. After constant stirring it becomes a thin pudding. Then, you can add other recipes such as essential oils, herbs, fragrance oils or any other recipes you wish to add.

After the process, it can be poured into molds. You can use towels to keep them warm. Leave it for 17 to 46 hours to continue with saponification. When the soap is hard enough, it can now be moved out of the mold and cut into desired sizes. The soap can then be used because it has completed saponification. But with cold process soaps, it must be totally hardened and dried for 2 to 5 weeks depending on water content before it is safe to use. If you use caustic soda, it is ideal to cure the soap for 4 weeks.

For more information on Soap Making Kits please visit our website.

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Jewelry Making And Beading For Dummies – Book Review


Jewelry Making & Beading for Dummies was first published in 2005 and is probably the most popular book available for teaching beginners about the basics of jewelry making and beading.

When the book was published a few years back I had already been making jewelry for quite some time so I wasn’t really interested in getting it.

Now that I focus more on teaching jewelry making I am always looking for jewelry making information that can help beginners, so I decided to get the book and review it.

Here is an overview of the contents of the book and my opinion about each section. If you are new to beading and/or jewelry making I hope you will find this useful.

The book is divided into five parts: Part 1: Creating Irresistible Jewelry, Part 2: Discovering Simple Jewelry-Making Techniques, Part 3: Implementing Design Ideas, Trends, and More, Part 4: Building on Your Jewelry Making Hobby, and Part 5: The Part of Tens.

The first part, Creating Irresistible Jewelry, covers from A to Z everything a beginner needs to know about the different strings, chords, and wire options available. There is also a complete explanation of the basic jewelry making tools and the different kinds of connectors (head pins, eye pins, jump rings, etc.) and clasps.

There is also a very comprehensive explanation about bead types, crystal beads, pearls, and stones. A small section is also dedicated to explaining where you can find jewelry making materials both online and offline.

The section finishes with a chapter dedicated to explaining how to best set up your workspace.

So Part 1 of the book is basically a description of “what” whereas Part 2, Discovering Simple Jewelry-Making Techniques, gets into the “how.”

Not surprisingly, it starts with stringing and knotting and how to use crimps. The next chapter is dedicated to Bead Weaving and focuses primarily on weaving with seed beads.

I thought it was a little unusual to focus so much on seed beads as there are many beautiful pieces you can make weaving with beads other than seed beads. So I think this chapter could be greatly improved by showing more details in that area, but still it does cover basic weaving patterns.

Part 2 ends with a chapter on wire wrapping which includes how to choose wire, basic wire wrapping techniques, and a nice section on how to use a wire jig.

So Parts 1 and 2 take up about half of the book and really cover everything you need to know as a beginner. I should also mention that there are simple projects spread throughout both sections so that you can practice what you are learning as you go along.

Looking at this from the perspective of a complete beginner, I think Parts 1 and 2 of the book are all you really need.

Part 3 of the book consists primarily of beading projects, and while they are all very nice pieces of jewelry, there are very few graphics showing step by step how to make the pieces. In my experience working with beginners I think many would find it difficult to make these pieces without detailed instructions or hands-on help like a class or video.

So if I were a beginner, I would learn everything in Parts 1 and 2, and put the book on the shelf for a while, and then maybe revisit Part 3 later after I had gained more experience.

Part 4, in my opinion, goes off on a tangent that I don’t think has much to do with learning beading and jewelry making.

Things are covered like how to decorate other objects with beads, making jewelry with kids, hosting a jewelry party, and tips for what to do if you want to turn your jewelry making hobby into a business.

I will say that the part about turning your jewelry making hobby into a business has some very good tips, especially on how to correctly price your jewelry. It shows you how to make sure that you include a cost for how long it takes you to make a jewelry piece. Most jewelry makers forget to do this and it leads them to significantly underprice their jewelry.

The final section, Part 5: The Part of Tens is so named because it gives you three chapters of Top Tens. The first top 10 is jewelry suppliers. It is good but a little dated. New suppliers have emerged since the book was published that are better than some listed in the book.

The second top 10 is common jewelry making mistakes to avoid and has very good tips for avoiding mistakes that beginners commonly make.

The third top 10 is ideas for making money selling your jewelry. There are some very good ideas in this section.

Overall, I would recommend this book to beginners as a good resource to get started. But keep in mind that if you’re learning style is more suited to learning by seeing things in action then you may have trouble actually learning beading by looking at this book simply because there are not a lot of “how to” graphics.

The book is available at many bookstores and also at

Eri Attebery operates a site dedicated to offering products that teach how to make jewelry, and a site offering jewelry making tips, video tutorials, product reviews and resources for both jewelry making beginners and pros

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